Learn how to make pommes purée, the classic French mashed potatoes known for their silky texture, rich butter flavor, and perfectly smooth finish.
Yes, mashed potatoes are great, but have you ever tried pommes purée? France’s version of the humble, sometimes rustic, sometimes lumpy mashed potatoes?
This French version is not afraid of dairy. In fact – as in most French dishes – it leans on butter. And butter here is the key factor: a ratio so high it turns it into an ultra-rich, silky, velvety potato purée. It’s kind of like mashed potatoes’ fancy cousin. The one who lives in Paris and you only get to see about once a year.
Instead of fluffy mounds, pommes purée are smooth and spoonable, enriched with butter and warm milk until they reach a texture that borders on custard.
If you’ve ever had mashed potatoes at a good French restaurant and wondered why they taste so impossibly creamy, this is the secret. The technique is simple, but a few small details make all the difference: the right potatoes, plenty of butter, and patience when incorporating the milk.
Pommes purée are the kind of side dish that elevates everything around them. They belong next to roast chicken, braised meats, and slow Sunday dinners, but they’re just as welcome on an ordinary weeknight when you want something comforting and familiar.
What Is Pommes Purée?
Pommes purée is the classic French version of mashed potatoes, known for its incredibly smooth texture and generous amount of butter and cream.
The dish was famously perfected by the legendary French chef Joël Robuchon, whose version used an astonishing amount of butter to achieve its signature richness. Gordon Ramsay uses a mix of about 60% potato and 40% butter and cream. This recipe follows a similar ratio of two-thirds potatoes to one-third dairy, making it a classic rich pommes purée.
Unlike typical mashed potatoes, pommes purée are traditionally:
- passed through a potato ricer or food mill
- enriched with warm milk or milk
- finished with plenty of butter
- stirred until completely smooth
The result is a texture that’s creamy, velvety, and almost elastic in its smoothness.
How to Make Pommes Purée
1. Cook the Potatoes
Peel the potatoes and cut them into large chunks.
Place them in a pot and cover with cold salted water. Bring to a simmer and cook until completely tender, about 15-20 minutes.
Starting the potatoes in cold water allows them to cook more evenly, while also helping to strengthen some of their pectin, which keeps them from falling apart. Boil just until the potatoes are tender enough to be poked through with a fork or paring knife with no resistance.
2. Dry the Potatoes
Drain the potatoes thoroughly and allow them to sit in the colander for about a minute to release excess water. Then return them to the pot over medium heat for a minute or two.
This step removes excess moisture and helps create a smoother purée.
3. Rice the Potatoes
To purée the potatoes, you can press them through a drum sieve or a regular sieve (which I’ve done many times; it’s a lot of work, but completely worth it if you don’t have a ricer), or you can use a ricer.
These are the only methods that ensure the potatoes remain light and lump-free. Avoid using a mixer, blender, or food processor, as they can make the mashed potatoes gluey.
4. Infuse the Cream
Add the cream to a medium saucepan over medium heat, along with the bay leaf and smashed garlic.
Bring the cream to a boil and let it reduce by half. Season with salt to taste, then strain it through a sieve into a small saucepan or measuring cup to keep warm.
5. Add the Butter
Slowly pour half of the infused cream into the riced potatoes. Using a whisk, lightly whip the potatoes, then add the other half of the infused cream.
Fold in the butter, a few cubes at a time, whipping until all of the butter is fully incorporated. Whip the mixture and taste for seasoning. The purée should be aerated, light, fluffy, and able to run off the side of a spoon or spatula.
Finish with finely chopped chives – or, if like me you’re out, use chopped parsley instead. Just don’t let the French know.
Tips for Perfect Pommes Purée
Choose the Right Potatoes
Yukon Gold potatoes are ideal because they have enough starch for creaminess without turning gluey when boiled.
Always Use Warm Cream
Using warm cream is essential to achieve a velvety and light consistency without making the potatoes gummy. Cold cream cools the potatoes instantly, causing starches to seize up and resulting in a dense, gluey texture.
Cold Butter, Hot Potato
Add cold, cubed butter to the hot, riced potatoes, whisking until incorporated. This creates an emulsion, making them shiny and silky. Avoid over-mixing to keep them light.
Start Cold
Place the potatoes in cold, salted water to ensure even cooking.
What to Serve With Pommes Purée
Pommes purée pair beautifully with classic comfort dishes:
- roast chicken
- braised short ribs
- roast lamb
- mushroom ragout
- pan-seared steak
Storage Tips
Pommes purée are best served immediately, but leftovers can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Reheat gently on the stove with a splash of cream, stirring until smooth again.
FAQs
What potatoes are best for pommes purée?
Yukon Gold potatoes are the best variety for pomme purée.
Why are my mashed potatoes gluey?
This usually happens when potatoes are overmixed or processed in a blender or food processor. Using a potato ricer or food mill helps keep the texture smooth without making the potatoes gummy.
Can pommes purée be made ahead?
Yes. The potatoes can be peeled and diced up to five days ahead of use. Make sure to cover in cold water and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container (check the water as the days go by; if it turns brown and starch settles to the bottom, drain, rinse, and replace the water.)
You can make the pomme purée a few hours ahead of time and store in a warm place. When you’re ready to serve, heat the purée low and fold in more heavy cream to loosen it up if needed.
You Might Also Like…
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.
Pommes Purée (French Mashed Potatoes)
Ingredients
Potatoes:
- 680 g (4-5 medium) waxy potatoes (such as Yukon), peeled and diced
- 1 tbsp salt
- 175 g (¾ cup) unsalted butter, cubed and chilled
- 25 g (¼ cup) parmesan, grated
Infused Cream:
- 150 g (⅔ cup) heavy cream
- 1 bay leaf
- 5 cloves garlic, crushed
- salt and black pepper to taste
Garnish:
- fresh chives, thinly sliced
- extra virgin olive oil optional
Instructions
- Cook the potatoes: Place the diced potatoes in a medium pot and add enough cold water to fully cover them (about 3 quarts). Add salt (about 1 tbsp) and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Taste the cooking water and adjust salt if needed so it tastes well seasoned.
- Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 7 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender enough to easily crush with the back of a spoon. Avoid letting the water return to a full boil, which can make the potatoes watery.
- Make the infused cream: In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the heavy cream, bay leaf, and smashed garlic. Bring to a boil and cook until the cream reduces by about half, about 3 minutes.
- Season lightly with salt. Discard the bay leaf and garlic cloves. Set aside.
- Dry the potatoes: Drain the potatoes in a colander and let them sit for about a minute to release excess moisture. Return them to the pot and place over medium heat for 1-2 minutes, covered, allowing the potatoes to steam and dry slightly.
- Rice the potatoes: Pass the hot potatoes through a potato ricer into a medium bowl. Continue until all the potatoes have been riced.
- Finish the purée: Fold half of the warm infused cream into the riced potatoes using a silicone spatula or whisk. Lightly whip the potatoes, then add the remaining cream.
- Add the butter a few cubes at a time, folding and whipping until fully incorporated. Season with salt to taste. Fold in the parmesan. The finished purée should be light, and fluffy, loose enough to slowly run off the side of a spoon or spatula.
- Garnish with chopped chives and a drizzle of olive oil, if desired. Serve.
